Racing Blog

11/28/11
THIS WEEKS SPONSORSHIP TIPS:

Things to do in the off-season to bring in new
sponsorship
By: Phil Veldheer [C]


Trade shows, I just got back from the PRI SHOW in
Indianapolis, Indiana and I worked non-stop, networking
with old and "new" advertisers. I went with the idea
of switching a few different suppliers of racing items
to my 5 (soon to be 6) racecar team. I asked long-time
racing connections if they knew anyone at "XYZ Company"
and if they did, I would ask them to recommend me to
the owner or sales manager of that company. By the
first hour of the second day at the PRI Show I had
successfully accomplished EVERY goal that I wanted to
do. I had listed over 40 people that I had to thank in
person and about 10 new people I had to meet to make a
few changes. I had a smile from ear to ear when I
accomplished my main goal. I thanked the new
"advertiser" and told him that he had made my day and
that my next goal was to give him twice as much as he
expected from my promotional and racing ideas and me.
My parking stub at Indy said I pulled in the lot at
6:41 AM and I left at 6:15 PM. I sat down no more than
30 minutes.

Come up with a new design for your race team, new
business cards, a new logo or if you don't have your
own logo make one. Have a professional help you as it
have to look impressive. You get one chance to make a
first impression and it is a lot easier to make it with
a business card, race team logo or even the lettering
on your racecar if it looks professional. When passing
out business cards, it is a lot more professional to
ask for the other person's business card first, then
hand them yours.

While "networking" at meetings or gatherings ask other
people what they do and get acquainted, however while
at a meeting or gathering don't ask for a contact for a
person who is in charge of marketing for their company
while at the gathering, make a follow up phone call and
ask questions then. While at gatherings never look
around and look for someone else to talk to, when you
are talking to someone else. No jokes, rumors or
gossip as it will probably offend your new connection.
Effective networking is a lot of work and the more you
do it the more effective you will be. Create a follow
up strategy and don't get lazy. Remember one of my
main sayings, "Effort equals results"

Let's say you had a new car dealership for an
"advertiser" and they did not want to participate as an
"advertiser" for the next season, get a phone book out
and start searching for a replacement. The same thing
is true if you have a used car dealership (or any other
advertiser) and they cancelled on you, get out a phone
book and see who is available, who you like to
represent on your race car(s). Then make an
appointment ASAP. There are days when I don't feel
like selling "advertising" space on my race cars and
then there are days I am excited, the person on the
other end of the phone can tell if you are enthused or
not, so make sure have rehearsed what you are going to
say before you call that new or used car dealership and
call for an appointment. Or what I try to do, is if I
have the time and I fell like promoting, I'll juts
drive to the new "advertiser" and ask "who's in charge
of promotions for this dealership?" and then ask if you
could have five minutes of their time...DO IT NOW!!!

Ask your friends, relatives and fellow workers if they
know anyone who has a business they "think" would like
to promote on your racecars. It is common knowledge in
sales that referrals generate 80% more results than
cold calls.

This is one that has worked for me also, ask an
"advertiser" you already have if they have anyone that
they know who you could approach to be an "advertiser"
on your race car. Lets say you have a construction
company as an "advertiser". They have to have a
surveyor, engineering firm, and steel supplier,
concrete company that they work exclusively with. When
you go to the people at the potential "advertiser"
don't "twist" any words around and say something to
offend the "advertiser" you already have, just say "so
and so gave me your name" any you are there to
hopefully promote their company also.



11/15/11
THIS WEEKS SPONSORSHIP TIPS:

10 Ideas To Promote Your Sponsor
By: Beverly Terrill [C]

So you want to get a sponsor...... How do you know what
to offer?

The 2 major concerns of a business is continually
getting new customers and retaining the current
customers. You need to come up with ways to market
your sponsor to new customers. You also want to help
him to create customer loyalty. Keep these concerns in
mind as you create your list of possible events.

Here are some ideas that you can customize to your
sponsors' needs:

1.) Give out coupons at the race to draw new customers
and bring back current customers. For instance, if your
sponsor sells tires, give out coupons for $10 off their
next tire purchase.

2.) Sponsor an event at the racetrack. Set up a booth
and have someone do face painting or make animal
balloons. Have the announcer promote these events
throughout the night mentioning your sponsor of course
each time he announces it.

3.) If you do an event, such as one mentioned in this
article, then advertise via your website or newsletter
or even a flier. Publicize that this special event
sponsored by "your sponsor" will be taking place at
this specific race. Be sure you get your sponsor to
attend the race that night.

4.) Have some fun giveaway stuff with your sponsors'
name on them. Do something different, other than
t-shirts or frisbees. How about bumper stickers or
keychains. Anything that can be used everyday but not
expensive to create in bulk.

5.) Dress up someone as Uncle Sam on the 4th of July
and have them hand out samples, coupons or souvenirs at
the race.

6.) Put a mascot in your car that relates to your main
sponsor. An example would be getting the local "Big
Boy" restaurant to sponsor and then carrying with you a
stuffed version of "Big Boy". Include him in your
winner's circle pictures.

7.) Have a contest to name the mascot. Ask the race
fans to fill out a form with their name, address and
mascot name. Reveal at the start of the contest which
night the new name will be announced. Contact the
winner(s) and give them tickets to the race (along with
a coupon if you have one). Make sure you work with the
track and make it a ceremony between races.

8.) Another idea is to have the employees name the
mascot. Show your car and your mascot at the sponsor's
business. Let the employees name the mascot and then
announce the winner of the contest at the track.
Publicize a special date so the employees can plan to
show up and find out who won.

9.) Sponsor a ride-along. This I got from Phil
Veldheer, author of "The Sponsorship Coach". He
offered a ride down the track(dragstrip) to the highest
bidder at a charity auction. Of course, during some
downtime, all eyes were on the lone car going down the
track with the passenger. You could gain some local
media coverage from both the auction and the race
itself.

10.) Work the sponsor's booth at their trade show. You
could get a lot of attention with the car or at the
very least pictures of your car and uniformed team
members. Take your hero cards and hand them out. This
works especially well for a business that is NOT racing
related.

Take these ideas and run with them. Good luck on your
sponsor hunt!

11/15/11
THIS WEEK  - SPEED TIPS:

10 Surefire Ways to Lower Drag
By: Don Terrill [C]

1.) Wheel Alignment - Don't think it's that big a deal?
Tell that to the Soap Box Derby racers. They go to
great lengths to make sure their tires roll without any
unnecessary drag.

2.) Inflate Tires - Most racers would find, if they
tested it, they would go faster with more tire
pressure. I say, just keep inflating the tires until
the car slows down. Try it. I think you'll be surprised
how high you can go.

3.) Choose an Aerodynamic Car - Why fight it? If you
can choose any car you want, why choose a '57 Chevy
when you could choose a late model Firebird?

4.) Stop Air from Going Under Car - There's two ways to
accomplish this, lower the car and/or the use of a
front spoiler. It is aerodynamically possible to get a
car too low, but 90% of racecars don't have this
problem and could benefit from lowering.

5.) Limit and Release Air from Engine Compartment -
Think about the amount of air that goes through the
radiator and how much drag is associated with it
exiting the engine compartment. The quickest fix is to
limit the amount of air entering the grill - have you
heard of 200mph tape?

6.) Smooth Undercarriage - For air that does go under
the car, it's best to give it a smooth path to exit the
rear of the car. The use of a belly pan is the
preferred method. They can be made from plastic or
aluminum sheets. Watch the exhaust if you use plastic.

7.) Lower/Remove Rear Spoiler - Most race cars that
have a rear spoiler, have it there because it helps
them go faster, but there are still many car owners
that have no idea if their spoiler is helping or
hurting - test it and find out.

8.) Harder/Stiffer Tires - The harder the compound and
the stiffer the sidewall of the tire, the less the
drag. Now, there's obviously a trade off between
traction and drag, but as I've said before, test it!

9.) Synthetic Oils and Greases - This is something you
don't need to test, if you switch over every lubricant
in your car to synthetic, you're going to go faster -
no question. Your engine, trans, rear-end and wheel
bearings will thank you.

10.) Less Steering Movement - There are three penalties
for unnecessary steering movement: (1) You're taking
the long way around/down the track. (2) Increased tire
friction. (3) Power used to lift the front end - every
time you time turn the wheels, the front end is
actually lifted, search the web for articles on caster
to learn more.

Check out the Speed Talk Technical Forums
http://speedtalk.com/forum/
 


11-4-11
THIS WEEKS SPONSORSHIP TIPS:

Tips for a Great Proposal
By, Beverly Terrill (C)

When looking for information on obtaining sponsorship,
you will find 10 people with 10 different methods. For
instance, some writers say to send a proposal to
everyone you may want to contact. Others say only send
the proposal once you have a commitment. There are
those who have 50 page proposal books and those who
have only 10 pages. Here are some guidelines for
helping you create your proposal:

1) Is bigger always better? Well here are some things
to consider. If your team is young and you've only run
a couple seasons, you would have to add a lot of fluff
to get 20 pages. But keep in mind, those successful
business' you target, will be very busy. A short, to
the point proposal will be just what they are looking
for. Phil Veldheer author of the "Sponsorship Coach",
uses a notebook with information from years past,
articles that have been written about him, etc. But he
most often presents it in person and rather than have
the prospect flip through, he takes them through it and
makes sure he points out those pages that will be most
important to the prospect. Unless you have a tried and
true method such as Phil's, I would say go with a small
number of pages for your proposal.

2) Fancy vs Practical. I'm sure you have already
guessed, fancy loses. Here's why; If you print a 10
page full color proposal with fonts of all shapes and
sizes with pictures galore, you have not only doubled
the cost of this proposal but you may leave the reader
with a headache. In Milt Gedo's book "How to Write a
Winning Proposal", he suggests some specific placement
of the color pages and also which pages are used with
every proposal and which should change with each
prospect. You do want to impress your prospect when
you present your proposal but that won't happen if your
proposal is too busy with pictures and unreadable
fonts. It's always a good idea to have color pictures
and logos but everything that is to be read should be
simple and practical.

3) Send it, leave it or present it? Here is where you
will have differing opinions from everyone. I refer to
Milt Gedo on this because he makes a lot of sense on
this issue. Milt's advice is to present your proposal
after you have met with the prospect. He says that you
can't even create a proposal until you have some idea
of what the prospect is interested in. In his words,
you want the decision maker looking over your proposal
and saying I like this and that. As opposed to him
looking at it and saying these are the things I don't
like or that don't apply to my business. If you create
a generic proposal and send it to everyone that may be
interested, it cannot serve every one of those
prospects. So you may send it, leave it or present it,
but only after you have input from your prospect.

Just a few other reminders. Keep records of all your
correspondence with potential sponsors. Create
proposals with the prospect's input and interests in
mind. Make sure the proposal is presentable. Don't
bring it loose leaf or stapled. Have it bound and
clean with no coffee stains. There are as many
proposals as there are sponsors, just make sure yours
fits the bill each time you meet with your potential
sponsor.


11-4-11
THIS WEEK.....SPEED TIPS:

10 Undeniable Truths about Going Fast
By, Don Terrill (C)

1.) You will not go fast by reading the rulebook - You
need to get into the pits and see what other racers are
doing to go fast. If you build to the letter of the
rulebook, you'll be bringing up the rear at every
racing event.

2.) Cheating exists in all types of racing - Some want
to sweep it under the rug for the integrity of the
sport, but non the less, it's there. I personally hate
cheating, but when your competitors are allowed to get
away with murder, what are you supposed to do?

3.) 5% of people will dominate - This doesn't just
apply to racing, but our entire society. I know this
may offend, but 95% of the people in the world are just
along for the ride. Only 5% actually do anything of
value.

4.) You can't Bolt-On your way to #1 - You can't order
a number one qualifier out of a catalog. Fast racers
will modify or design from scratch just about every
important part on their cars.

5.) A full-time racer will outperform a part-time racer
- I'm amazed how many part-time racers think full-time
racers are cheating. I know it may be hard to admit,
but they're just better. Not because they cheat, but
because of their experience.

6.) More money does not directly equal more wins - Stop
thinking you're losing because of money. I've seen
world champs crowned with a tenth of the budget of
their competitors. My advice, focus on what you spend
your money on. Look at performance per dollar.

7.) Complaining about a competitor or his car will not
make yours faster - Worry about you and your car,
they're the only things you truly control. There is no
such thing as a perfect car or driver, both can be
improved.

8.) The difference between good and great is tuning - I
feel like I've said this a thousand times, give the
same engine to 10 different racers, you'll have 10
different results. The top tuners will always come out
on top.

9.) You can make too much power - Unless you run the
Bonneville Salt Flats, there's a good chance you can
over power the track. I see it all the time with short
track stockcars -- they almost all have too much low
end power and spend half their track time at part
throttle.

10.) An engineer with common sense will rise to the top
- It's only a theory because the combination doesn't
exist :) Alright, I'm kidding, but you have to admit
it's rare. The easiest way to get the same thing is
having an engineer team up with someone with common
sense.
‎ 

‎10-28-11
ENGINE TIPS:

10 Tips for Engine Survival by Don Terrill

Less RPM - This is the number one killer of an engine. If you can make enough power at a lower RPM you should do it. Don't forget missed shifts, now that's a real killer.

Optimal Coolant Temp - Both running an engine under power with too much water temp and too little temp can be harmful. High temps are the worst, with blown head gaskets one of the first signs of trouble. I'd say between 160' and 210' is best, never over 240'.

Optimal Oil Temp - Low oil temp lowers oil flow. Higher oil temp breaks down the oil and gives way to the chance of metal parts coming into contact. Drag Racers usually race with the oil temp too low and stock car racers too high. Try to get near 200'.

Less Compression - I'm a real fan of less compression. If you don't need the extra power then there's no need having the engine on melt down. If you're in a competitive class then you have no choice. I'd keep it under 12 if you don't need the power.

Proper Ignition Timing - Too much timing leads to pre-ignition, which is like hitting the piston with a sledge hammer. Too little timing can lead to extremely hot exhaust valves. What happens if an exhaust gets too hot? The head eventually falls off. The only way to know the right timing is by dyno testing, track testing or reading the spark plugs.

Tighter Lash - The weakest link in most engines today is the valve train and nothing kills it faster than too much lash. Just adding .010" of lash can double the force on the valves. The only negatives to tight lash is usually less torque and the chance of holding the valve open if you go too far. Consult your cam maker for a usable range.

Optimal Oil Level - You probably think I'm going to say too low is the problem, well if someone is going to make a mistake on oil level, 90% of the time it's going to be too high. Too much oil can lead to the crank and rods whipping it up and adding air -- not good. Most applications are very safe at 6qts.

Proper A/F Ratio - Too rich a mixture can cause problems, for example carbon build up and washing the cylinders down. The real risk is from too lean a mixture. Just like ignition timing the only way to know the right mixture is by dyno testing, track testing or reading the spark plugs.

Proper Clearances - Rod bearing clearance, main bearing clearance, piston to wall clearance, lash, etc., all are extremely important. You'd be shocked to know how few engine builders know exactly what these specs are. My advice, buy the tools and learn how to assemble your own engine.

Proper Startup - I can't tell you how many times I've seen this, someone starts their racecar completely cold and proceeds to rev the engine between idle and 7000RPM. All engines need time to warm up. Better yet, how about oil and coolant heaters?

‎10-28-11
CHASSIS TIPS:

Q&A with Michael Leone

QUESTION: We just go done doing all the work you recommended on our 83 Grand Prix. Our bump steer has come out almost perfect, everything looks and feels great, we are looking forward to testing.
... My questionis this: After doing all the front end work, when measuring our camber (using the shim packs from last year) we found that we went from 4 degrees negative on the RF to 2 degrees negative. On the LF we went from 2 degrees positive to 4 degrees positive. This was good for the LF but bad for the RF. In order to help the RF we moved the upper ball joint inward by re-drilling the holes. Is this normal for the camber change when doing this work?

Current front end setup: Caster- LF 3.5 pos RF 5.5 pos Camber LF 4.0 pos RF 4.25 neg Toe - 2mm out

ANSWER:
Yes it's absolutely normal for camber to change whenever you monkey around with anything in the front end. Changing the ride heights and arm angles changes camber the most. The section on camber gain explains this a bit. With camber don't automatically assume that more is better, you really need to check the tire temps to see what the car wants. I think you have a good starting point. If you got the bump perfect, you've done some good work! 2mm toe? This is a racing first for me, someone expressing the toe measurement in metric!

Check out Michael Leone's "Stock Car Setup Manual" by clicking on other  Racing Setup Info Page 

Good software for keeping track of your tire temps go to the Race Car Setup Software Page

Check out the video on how the software works....easy and inexpensive!


10-28-11 
SPONSORSHIP TIPS:

Market your Sponsors by Phil Veldheer

10 tips to help market your sponsor (advertiser) and make sure they renew next year.

1. Go to the post below on 10-13-11 - 10 Tips to keep your sponsor (advertiser) happy. Re-read it and start to live by it.

2. If you have an advertiser already that sells aproduct, lets say, Auto Glass, make sure that all your OTHER advertisers know what Auto Glass Company to go to. Got it? I sent my Auto Glass advertiser to one of my BIG Trucking Company and it resulted in increased sales for the Auto Glass Company.

3. Let's talk about promoting your Auto Glass Company again (we could pick any kind of company here). Come upwith ways to promote sales for you advertiser. I developed a 6 to a sheet of colored paper-coupons, then cut them to size and passed them out to everyone. We gave free wiper blades away with every windshield replacement. Plus I got them in a lot of other companies weekly paychecks, I got them at the banks and credit unions in the area. I SOLD WINDSHIELDS! Do the same thing for your racing parts "advertisers". I picked up the biggest account for one of my racing parts sponsors. I picked up the second largest account for another one of my "advertisers" on my race cars in the last six months, it was fun doing it.

4. You want more exposure for your "advertisers", get your race car(s) in the next Memorial Day Parade, 4th of July Parade or Pumpkin Parade. Typically more people will see it at the parade and tell your "advertiser" than people who go to the races.

5. Get a perfectly clear photo of your race car(s) either sitting or action and talk to your local newspaper sports editor. Take with you a complete history of your race team, look professional and ask him to run a story of your race team, make sure the photos show the "advertisers" on the car.

6. Make sure you plan on having your race car(s) at your advertisers during the year at least once for either a coming picnic, special event or a special sale. Even think church picnic, you'll be surprised where you can meet new "advertisers"

7. If at all possible get tickets for your "advertisers" from the race track. I know our local oval track gives each weekly regular racer 25 free tickets for the season. Our local drag strip has new owners so we'll see what happens there.

8. Make sure the announcers mention the "advertisers" at the track. I have 48 ADVERTISERS on my 5 race cars and trailers and I have 53 PRODUCT ADVERTISERS on my 5 race cars and trailers. There is no way they can mention them all, but if you know an ADVERTISER is going to be there that day, MAKE SURE THEY MENTION that "advertiser". Get it?

9. Links on your website, this is simple, make sure youdo it.

10. If you are reading this and can't believe someone has over 100 companies that either giving a person CASH or PARTS, its the TRUTH!!! Go to the Other Racing Setup Info page click on the link SPONSORSHIP COACH. I have over a year in writing this, plus 3 1/2 hours of audio that tells ALL of my secrets. This is the BEST MONEY you WILL EVER spend on your race team. It even comes with a double your money back guarantee. I have been racing for free and making a profit for years and could have easily quit my full time job four years ago and raced for a living


10/20/11
SPONSORSHIP TIPS:

10 tips to keep your sponsor (advertiser) happy
by Phil Veldheer

1. Keep all the promises you made.

2. Promote your sponsors product or service to the best
of your ability and believe in them.

3. Make sure you use your sponsors products or services
if at all possible.

4. Send a list of your racing results, displays,
promotions and future races at least every three or
four weeks during the racing season. I do it every two
weeks.

5. Thank your sponsors (advertisers) for their support
and mean it. Show sincere appreciation.

6. Keep all financial arrangements confidential.

7. Come up with new ideas or new customers for your
sponsor. Make sure your sponsor knows when you either
sent them a new prospect or a new customer.

8. Don't do anything to embarrass your sponsor. They
want a good representative for their company. Not a
loud mouth loser. When you lose take it like a man. Go
shake the winners hand.

9. Make sure your race car, tow vehicle, trailer and
uniforms are spotless, remember you represent your
sponsor and you want them back next season.

10. Don't wait until racing starts in the spring to see
if your sponsor is going to "re-up" for another season.
Get that all handled when the racing season is over in
the the fall. That way if someone drops off you'll have
all winter to get another replacement. Live by these
three words, "Do it now."

For more info go to our "Other Racing Setup Info" page and look at the Sponsorship Software


10/20/11 -
CHASSIS TIPS:

Stock Car Q&A with Michael Leone

QUESTION: When shortening the rear upper trailing arms
to change the pinion angle, it seems to bind up the
upper arms due to their shortened length. They seem to
need to be pinched together more in order to have the
correct angles and movement. Any thoughts and
suggestions would be helpful.

ANSWER: Moving the holes does create some bind, no easy
way around it, but there are some things that you can
do that will help.

First of all you can't go too far, maybe an inch or two
max. When you drill the holes, do them with the arms in
the car, at proper ride height (on blocks), with the
correct tires and stagger (no springs). Rock the rear
housing forward to the angle you want, then drill the
holes through the bushing. You will have to run the
bolts a little loose to prevent bind. Weld big washers
on each side to prevent the loose bolt from wearing the
hole into a slot. You can also use upper arms out of a
late 60's chevelle, they are shorter from the factory.
I always preferred shortening the stock ones though,
that way you can line the holes up right. We used to
check for proper bolt tightness by putting the car in
gear (or park) and rocking the car forward and back.
look at the rear arms through the trunk, if the bolts
are too loose, you'll see it. Make sure that every
bushing/frame/mount surface is smooth and lubricated
with anti-seize. Make sure that the spring pockets are
flat after you change the pinion angle.

Michael is the author of the "Street Stock Setup Manual"
Check it out - Click Here


10/6/11 -
CHASSIS TIPS:

Q&A with Michael Leone

QUESTION: This year we went to a metric chassis. I
just have one question. (so far) I understand setting
the ride height, but how do you adjust and maintain
that ride height? Lead? Springs? Pre-load on the
sway bar? Maybe I'm not understanding fully.

ANSWER: First you have to hang the lead where you want
it on the car. Put in the springs that you want to run.
Put the car on the ground (with the right size tires)
and measure the distance from the frame to the ground
(make sure you're on level ground) on all four corners
on the car (behind the front wheels, in front of the
rear wheels). To raise a corner of the car you need to
put some type of spacer above or below the spring. (in
the front it is usually above, in the rear it is
usually below). If your rules allow "jacking bolts" you
simply screw the bolts up or down to adjust the height.
If you don't have Jacking Bolts, AFCO makes spring
mounts that hold the springs in place and allow you to
stack "shims" to adjust the ride height. AFCO also
makes adjustable spring mounts that easily allow you to
adjust the frame height, if your rules allow. If you
are required to use "stock appearing" springs, you'll
have to find different height springs or somehow cut or
modify them to get the heights. This is a royal pain.
Never use the sway bar to adjust frame height, in fact
you should have the swaybar disconnected when you are
setting your heights. Remember that whenever you raise
one corner of the car, the opposite corner tends to
drop some. You end up chasing yourself around to get
the thing right. Hope this helps, good luck

Michael is the author of the "Street Stock Setup Manual"
Check it out - Click Here


9-29-11
CHASSIS TIPS